A Diner’s Guide (and Open Love Letter) to London’s Supper Clubs

New Year's Eve at Fernandez & LeluuIt’s been a short but delightful relationship so far. Having only heard of supper clubs whispered discreetly among those more in-the-know than I, it was October’s visit to Fernandez & Leluu that started it all off.

Tucked away on a secret Hackney side-street was their makeshift dining room. It was full of tables, plates, cutlery and character. We, being the first to arrive, scampered into the garden for some wine. As others turned up, exchanged knowing glances, we settled into a six hour gastronomic experience that was far superior to many of the more official eateries in recent memory. Since then we’ve attended F&L two more times and witnessed the founding of the excellent Trail of Our Bread (also in Hackney).

So after not really knowing what to expect, here’s a few tips if you’ve been thinking about signing up to the supper club experience:

1. It’s not a restaurant.

So don’t treat it like one. It’s someone’s house. Try not to break things, don’t expect fresh cutlery for each course, don’t expect each course to arrive with rapid fire precision. It’s highly unlikely anyone’s actually worked in a proper restaurant.

2. It’s really not a restaurant.

You’re not paying for a service from a business. You’re donating time and money to be part of a fun experiment. You’re the subject of someone’s passion. A supper club attendee has been chosen. Pre-selected. Almost vetted, really. So the social implications of just being there and meeting other diners creates a bonhomie that no typical restaurant experience can match.

3. Pay fair.

We’re British. Therefore we’re useless at dealing with, and asking for, money. On the off-chance you didn’t like the food, and even if you’re the sort of person who refuses to pay for things in restaurants, don’t dick the club out of its donation. Pay at least 10-20% over the suggested donation. Take plenty of cash with you, because if it’s really exceptional, then it’s still going to have cost you less than going to a restaurant.

4. Don’t be picky. Or flaky.

Well, to be more specific, if you’re the picky type, then supper clubs aren’t for you. We’ve had everything from frog’s legs to sashimi. Things that might make you go bleurgh. I’m one of those people that’ll try anything once, and my favourite menus are those that are just presented to me. I don’t know what’s best, I’ve not cooked it. If you can’t handle that as a concept, then you won’t enjoy yourself. But if you love the surprise of each dish arriving, you’ll have a brilliant time.

And for goodness sake, don’t cancel. Cancelling a reservation at a supper club is the baddest of bad form. Only cancel if you’ve lost a limb, or died. It hurts everyone else involved with the endeavour. Seating plans and portion sizes are the main victims, and they’re very carefully planned. If you’re taking a large group to a supper club then make sure none of your flaky mates are invited. It will reflect badly on you otherwise, and you’ll struggle to get another table.

5. Be nice.

Nicer than default restaurant mode. You can make friends at supper clubs. As previously mentioned, most of these folks haven’t had professional training. So compliment loudly and often. More than you’re used to doing. Ask for recipes, be specific about what you liked. Be honest about what could have been better.

But even more importantly than all that, remember that the geographic locations of these clubs is a secret. I’m no expert, but the legality of these clubs is dubious. So don’t add them to FourSquare.

6. Take plenty of booze.

It’s a long night. Don’t plan on having anywhere else to be. If you get out of there before midnight, you’re doing it wrong.

And pace yourself.


Tagged as , , , , , , + Categorized as Reviews, Food

8 Comments

  1. What a lovely guide!
    As someone who has recently started her own supper club, I kept stressing that the food wasn’t good enough – then realised that I was comparing myself to a restaurant. Once I chilled out and accepted the whole thing for a totally different experience, it was far more enjoyable.
    I couldn’t stress your guidelines enough – particularly 4!

    Thanks for such an enjoyable post to read! (got to run – got 18 portions of soup bubbling away!)

  2. It sounds amazing. I want in.

  3. Nice guide Simon, it’s nice to see those unwritten rules finally get an airing. I do my supper club so that strangers are being bought together by food and fun. We don’t have mitchelin stars yet!

  4. An excellent guide.
    As passionate supper club organizers, we can also stress that “it is not a restaurant” – although for many supper club guests, it is a better experience than most restaurants can offer.

  5. Better late than never!
    More info on the ‘movement’ at my blog http://marmitelover.blogspot.com/or on this group: http://supperclubfangroup.ning.com/

  6. Joginder's Supperclub says:

    What a great guide Simon. Very fair and honest account of a supperclub! I hope we owners of a supperclub have more people like you who are willing to try new things and realise that they aren’t going to a restaurant but to someone’s home. Very different experience. Will point our guests in the direction of this website as we do get questions about the etiquette of a supperclub! Thanks!

  7. Chowpatty SupperClub says:

    Hi Simon,

    As someone who is about to start her own supper-club in less than 2 wks from now this comes as a ‘relief-pill’. Grt work!

    My Supperclub is called ” Chowpatty Supperclub” and if you are interested in having locally popular Indian dishes that are hard to find in UK restaurants please book your place at:

    http://www.wegottickets.com/event/72009

    or visit on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/London-United-Kingdom/Chowpatty-SupperClub/302459100016?ref=ts

    or email me – chowpattylondon@gmail.com

    Thanx,
    Chowpatty Supperclub

  8. Bravo, well said!
    N

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